Mike Wallenfels, the new president and CEO of Timbuk2 Designs supplements his training mileage with a daily bike commute from Marin County to San Francisco and back. He takes a ferry part of the way and rides the rest; it is 38 miles door-to door. Mike has commuted by bicycle for many years and has some great tips for commuting to work by bike. He is especially well qualified to give advice on how to carry it all when you go by bike.

Choosing a Bike:

If you have a nice bike, leave it safely at home. Choose a bike according to type of commuting you are doing

If you are going over 10+ miles, you’ll want a bike with some speed as well as comfort and the ability to get on and off the pedals easily when stopping.
An old racing bike can be altered to become a good long-distance commuter bike. Replace skinny tires with more robust tires that can hit the curbs and bumps in the road without getting a flat. Change the hard seat for one that is comfortable for riding in everyday street clothing.

For shorter commutes: a hybrid bike will usually be fine for a short commute. An older mountain bike with a stiff fork can be made into a city bike by switching out the knobby tires with slick tires.
If you are looking for a new bike, there are some great bicycles out there that are perfectly suited for the commuter. Some of them already come with racks, fenders, even lights. Mike Wallenfels specifically mentioned the brands, Globe, Janis and Electra.

Cleaning Up at Work:

Mike said for most of his time as a bike commuter, he has not had access to a functioning shower. He was able to clean up with a wash cloth, warm water, soap and a towel in the bathroom. His commute is a long one, though. He notes that with a shorter commute, you don’t need to get your heart rate up very high. Slow down to minimize sweat and you shouldn’t need more than a quick towel off.

Ways to Carry Your Stuff:

Timbuk2's Classic Messenger Bag

On Body:

There is a reason messenger bags are popular with cyclists. They are convenient and offer flexibility for those who need to frequently access the bag to get things in and out of. It is ideal for short commutes and stable if worn correctly.  They are often perfect for carrying lap-top and other office materials and if that is what you carry, look for the bags that feature a padded lap-top sleeve.

Messenger Bag Con: Can be clumsy to wear if going fast and may cause a sweat band.

Backpacks offer stability; they are always on your back and are often inexpensive and just as nice as messenger bags for carrying office supplies. A well-made one is also quite comfortable.  “I actually use Timbuk2’s Maverick Swig a fully-waterproof backpack that is stable for long-distance commute.”

Backpack Con: They aren’t as easy to access as a messenger bag, and can leave a sweat mark on your back.

Timbuk2's Mission Pannier Tote works like a pannier, but then easily clips off to become a tote bag.

On Bike:

Once panniers were mainly used for touring, but the trend is now toward business-oriented panniers. Panniers attach to a rear bike rack and take the weight off the rider and onto the bike. The con with panniers used to be that it wasn’t easy to carry them around once they were off the bike, but Timbuk2 has a new series of panniers that once removed from the bike become “with-you bags.” The Bullet Pannier, for example, has a strap so it can be used like a shoulder bag and the Mission Tote changes from pannier to tote bag.

Timbuk2 has also designed their business-panniers to fit a lap-top in a nylon sleeve and offers many messenger bags and backpacks designed expressedly for carrying lap-tops safely.  (My photo below is not of a Timbuk2 pannier, but shows how to pack a lap-top safely.)

To protect your laptop, keep it in a padded nylon sleeve and pack soft items like clothing around it.

Packing Tips:

Mike recommends keeping a spare pair of shoes and a few nice clothing items at work to change into. He also keeps a toiletry kit with all the basics at the office. Keep what you can at the office, so you aren’t weighed down on the commute.

Still, most days, you can carry what you need. He notes that many people recommend rolling clothing and then placing the clothing rolls vertically in the pannier for stability. Another suggestion is to wrap the clothes in a plastic bag from the dry-cleaner because the plastic reduces friction and friction causes wrinkling. Protect the laptop in its nylon sleeve by placing the clothing around it. Mike highly recommends Eagle Creek’s Pack-It Packaging Folder which is a big envelope to fold clothes into and keep them wrinkle-free.

Wet Day Commuting:

• It is critical to keep your stuff dry during a wet commute and you need to protect your clothing and computer. Choose panniers, messenger bags or backpacks that will stay water-tight (Timbuk2 has several very-well made water-resistant bags to choose from such as the Timbuk2 Bullitt Pannier which converts to a messenger bag.) Some panniers come with water-proof bags to cover them in case of rain.
• When you ride in the rain, you will get wet, but to avoid getting chilled, wear good wind-stopping bike apparel. On warm, wet days, you may just need a top. Have dry clothes available so you can change once you get to work.
• A bad weather day may be a day to cut the commute shorter by taking your bike on public transportation.

A Few Safety Tips:

• Look for the right route –“hopefully, you live in a community with bike lanes” Try to determine your bike route to include as many bike lanes as possible, even if it takes you a little out of the way.  This is the main safety tip.
• In low light conditions, you need to have the right lighting on your bike and on your body so you will be seen by cars. You need a flashing red light behind you and a flashing white light in front of you. (Reflective clothing isn’t enough.)  You also need a good light to illuminate the road ahead.
• Look ahead and anticipate what the cars will do and assume they don’t see you. Just remember, on your bike you have a small profile.

Staying motivated after Bike-to-Work-Day:

Mike notes that many people bike to work during the Bike-to-Work Day or Week, but lose motivation to keep it up. Here are his recommendations for keeping that motivation to bike commute longer.

• Set goals for yourself.
• Find a commute buddy so you can keep motivating each other.
• Decide the day before (and pack your stuff up the night before)
• Calculate how much money you are saving by not using the car (“I calculated I saved $4500 by not using the car.”)
• Fitness is a motivator you can calculate how many miles you cover, your speed, etc.

May is National Bike Month and many cities have a Bike to Work Week or even promote it for a month. With its usually fair and moderate weather in many places in the country, it is a good time for many people to start using their bicycle to commute to work. Commuting to work is a great way to get in some exercise, have a chance to enjoy a little relaxing time to think as you ride, and a way to save money and help the environment at the same time. Yes, we are aware that the numbers of men who commute by bike often vastly outnumber the women who do. However, it isn’t as difficult as you might think.

We interviewed Bridget Stuchly and Emi Storheim who commute daily to work. Bridget has a relatively short commute, while Emi combines a train commute with her bike commute to make the 50 mile roundtrip do-able. They have adapted their bicycles for commuting and have figured out how to deal with changes in weather, toting necessites for work and performing the Wonder Woman routine in a bathroom without showers to transform from commuter into executive. Watch our video to get all their tips and advice.

It’s time for some spring-cleaning—even for your bike! Your bike may have spent the winter in the garage or it may have taken you on some winter rides, but now it needs a good cleaning. Think of it as some TLC, because a bike that is well taken care of will ride smoother and last longer for years to come. It really isn’t hard to do and most of your cleaning supplies can come from household products you already have: an old toothbrush, a potscrubber brush,a rag or two, dish soap and water. If you buy some chain cleaner, chain lube and a degreaser  from the bike store, you are set. Lastly, I highly recommend a pair of gloves; it can be a dirty job for your hands.

If a bike is caked with dirt, you'll want to spray as much of that off as you can with water. (Do not use a high pressure hose, though.)

To make your bike cleaning even easier, we’ve made a handy bike-cleaning check list that you can print off for easy referral when you need. It will help you through the basic steps of bike maintenance and cleaning. To keep your bike riding smoothly and looking great, clean as often as needed during prime riding season.

Make an Inspection

If it has been a few months since you last rode your bike, you’ll want to check it out thoroughly and make sure everything on the bike from the shifting, to the brakes to the chain is in good working order. If there is a problem, you’ll want to get it fixed before your next ride.

Your old toothbrush can have a new use as a great little cleaning device for hard to reach areas on your bike.

There are several little spots on a bike that need extra attention as you clean and they are usually in the hard-to-get-to parts of your bike. A small little brush like an old toothbrush will make it easier to get those spots clean. A bike stand is very helpful to keep the bike up higher so you can see the dirty spots  you might not normally see. But if you don’t have one, turn your bike upside-down on a towel or on your lawn. The very bottom of the bike gets dirt from the road, and if you are an endurance cyclist, it may also get sticky drips from your water bottles filled with Gatorade-type beverages. Be sure the base of the bike where the cables run is clean to avoid shifting problems. If you are cleaning the bike with dish soap and water, rinse it afterwords and carefully towel it dry.

An alternative to the soap & water method for cleaning the bike is a commercial bike cleaner. It is a little easier because it is made for breaking down the kind of dirt and grime a bike often gets--AND--it doesn't require rinsing.

It's a good idea to clean your chain after every 4-5 rides. Chain cleaning products such as "White Lightning will clean your chain in a couple minutes and are very easy to use.

I think one of the easiest maintenance jobs to do on your bicycle is cleaning and lubing the chain. It’s so-ooo easy but yet  it often gets  neglected and chains get full of grit, shifting is affected and sometimes chains will rust. This is one little job that you can do monthly to keep your bike in good working order. You’ll notice the shifting will be smoother and quieter and your chain will last longer.

After the chain is cleaned, you'll want to lube it. Generally, you'll put a tiny drop on each link. Just move the chain by rotating the pedal and lube a long segment of chain at a time.

It's easy to forget about how much dirt and sweat accumulates in a helmet. While you're cleaning the bike--don't forget to clean the helmet too!

Download a printable bike cleaning checklist

Is your stolen bike here or tucked away in a back room?

It’s such a helpless feeling: you know there is a crime going on and you are powerless to stop it. That’s exactly how I felt when I overheard two unkempt young men talking on the pay phone as I was getting money out of an ATM at our city’s downtown library square. The men were negotiating the sale of “a really nice Specialized bike” for the low, low price of $50, and pleading with the guy on the other end to “get down here now” to pick up the bike. I quickly called security who watched the guys leave the building, had me fill out a report, and then told me there was nothing they could do about it. Why? Simply because there would be no proof the bike was not theirs to sell. Are you kidding, me?!

Stealing bikes is sadly so easy to do that many petty criminals do it and get away with it. As reported in the San Francisco Guardian, thieves steal nearly $50 million worth of bikes each year in the United States, far outstripping the take of bank robbers, according to the FBI.

Once the bike is stolen, where does it go? Well, there is one business that is used to taking used property and making a profit on it. If you guessed “pawn shops,” you are correct! Pawn shops even have their little jokes: “It’s only been stolen once.”

When a person (substitute the word thief here, if desired) takes a bike into the pawn shop, he has to state that he is the rightful owner of the bike and wishes to sell it. He shows his ID (real or not) and gives a fingerprint and then walks off with his cash. Honest pawnbrokers will enter the data on the bike with a good description and the serial number of the bike where it will be checked out through the criminal database NCIC (National Crime Information Computer) which police across the country use. The bike should according to many state laws, be held 30 days before it can be sold. If it is reported stolen and matches the description and serial number, it will be flagged. Presumably the thief will then be tracked down and charged with “possession of stolen property” and also “theft by deception.” And the stolen bike will be returned to the rightful owner. Ah, the happy ending!

Don't we all wish this guy would come to the rescue?

The Pawn Brokers from the Dark Side

“Unfortunately, there are a lot of shady places. If they can fudge things a bit without being discovered, they will.” says Detective Doug Lambert of Salt Lake County Sheriff’s office.

Here’s a sampling from the naughty pawn broker’s bag of tricks. As the brokers enter the data into the NCIC database, they might give a very vague description of the bike and hope the owner never knew his serial number. If the bike is clear, it is then theirs to legally sell. When really valuable bikes are brought in by thieves and sold for a mere pittance of their worth to the pawn shop, they are put into a back room where only select buyers may see them, not the poor girl looking for her stolen bike at every pawnbroker in town. Such a bike will probably make its way quickly out of the area.

Okay, how should I have caught those thieves? As the saying goes, hindsight is 20/20 vision. Instead of calling security, I should have got on the library’s PA system and announced, “Will the real owner of a nice Specialized bike get down here quick before 2 guys sell it on the street for a mere 50 bucks!”

Do You Want to Keep Your Bike Out of the Hands of Petty Criminals?

Eight Tips To Keep Your Bike Safe **

1. Get a good, strong lock—expect to spend about 10% of the bike’s value. Some suggest a U-Lock and a strong cable lock used together.

2. Choose a safe location to lock up your bike in the first place (If someone is taking cable cutters or hacksaws to bike locks, they are more likely to do it out of the public eye.)

3. Don’t leave your bike (or your children’s bikes) out unprotected in the yard

4. Don’t leave your garage open for long periods of time to give a thief a quick opportunity to grab a bike and go.

5. Register your bike’s serial number and description with the National Bike Registry (at the very least, keep good records with serial number & photo of bike.)

6. License your bike in the city/county you live in.

7. If you commute into town regularly and have to lock your bike outside in a public place, don’t spend a lot on it. Many commuters keep a “beater bike” for this purpose.

8. Lock and booby-trap your bike (Loosen seat and turn it around backwards and re-tighten, put in lowest gear, etc. See more ideas here.)

**Sorry, nothing is 100% guaranteed, but these tips will increase your odds of keeping your bike safe!

Would love to hear more tips from our readers–or share your sad story of your beloved bike forever lost with us in the comments section!

Thanks to Detective Doug Lambert of the Salt Lake County Sheriff’s Office and Jonathan Morrison         of the Bicycle Collective, who I interviewed for this article.

With a Lean Wallet, Which Is The Best Value?

Budgets are tight in these economic times and when shopping for a new bicycle for you or your child, it can be very tempting to buy the cheapest bike you can find. But is it really the best value to buy an inexpensive bike at a “Big Box” store?

Our friend Josh, who manages a bike store in our town, told us about a woman who brought in a bike she had just purchased two hours earlier at a Wal-Mart for $150 that was so damaged from her first ride that it would cost another $150 to fix. The bike, it turned out, had not been built correctly with the front derailleur put on backwards. So as she put the bike through the normal shifting, it caused a literal “chain reaction” that resulted in significant damage.

Alternatively, she could have purchased an entry-level Trek mountain bike for the $300 she ended up paying. It would have been lighter, with a higher quality frame, better welding, etc. and put together by someone who knows what they are doing.

If you have children, inevitably the happy day will come, when they will want to own and ride a bicycle. With kids, it can be very tempting to go to a place like Toys R Us and buy a sparkly pink $80 bike for our young daughter or a cool looking “mountain” bike with a fake front shock for our son. After all, they will just grow out of them, right? Well, you hope so. How about another true story?

A Problem that is Hard to Fix

My husband Paul fixes a lot of the neighborhood children’s bikes for free. One young boy brought his bike over for repair. It should have been an easy fix with two flat tires. The bike was from a “Big Box” store though, and it had a unique 18-inch wheel size. My husband went to about five different places searching for tubes that would fit and came home empty-handed. Instead, he patched the tubes with 8 patches. He also tried to adjust the seat for the young man—but the seat had an adjustment span of maybe an inch. What was even more discouraging was this small bike was deceptively heavy; it weighed more than half the boy’s weight!

What's the real cost of a "Big Box Store" bike?

A Better Story

Alternatively, we bought our oldest son for his first bike a Giant brand bike from a Seattle bike store. He rode it, and then passed it down to his younger brother when he grew out of it. Our second son is notoriously hard on stuff, but the bike was not the worse for wear. When our first daughter was ready for it, my husband gave the red bike a more feminine look by switching out the black seat, tires, and handle grips for white ones. She passed it down to her little sister, and a few years later, the bike went to another family who continued to pass it on down the line. Somewhere, I think some child is still riding that bike. I just love happy endings, don’t you?  Bicycles are meant to be ridden by children and not end in trash bins on garbage pick-up day.

When you compare quality, the value of a bike store bicycle comes shining through!

Lets Compare & Contrast

Big Box Chain

Bike Shop Chain

Big Box Store Bike:

• Heavier—may weigh up to 25% more than its brand-name equivalent
• May not have been put together correctly which can be a safety issue
• The place you bought it from will not offer servicing for your bike
• May not be able to replace parts
• Might not have any re-sale value
• Some kids’ bikes are such poor quality; they ultimately end up in a landfill, not being passed down to other kids.
• Shifting and braking will not be as smooth
• Seat may not adjust very much or as smoothly (esp. with kids’ bikes)
• A lower quality bike may give a novice such a negative experience with cycling; they may never want to use the bicycle again.

What is wrong with this "Big Box" bicycle? The fork is on backwards! This would affect steering and braking and would be a safety issue.

Bike Shop Bike (Equivalent Entry-Level Bike)

• Lighter bike overall
• Reliable shifting, better quality brakes
• Replacement parts are readily available
• Reliability—the bike shop will stand behind its work and the bike should last for years
• Better warranty—typically lifetime frame warranty
• It will have some re-sale value, if you should want to up-grade to another bike one day

(A big thank-you to the experts who helped me with this article: my husband Paul and Josh Dennis of Guthrie Bikes!)

If you are shopping for your first road bike, here is an article, you might want to read. If you want some tips for finding a female-friendly bike shop and more tips on buying your first bike, look here.

Rachel (in green) is dressed in a technical fabric top and close fitting shorts. She has on cross training athletic shoes. Annie (in red) is a more seasoned spinner and is wearing a bike jersey and lightly padded bike shorts. Her cycling shoes are fitted with an MTB cleat in order to clip in. On her wrist she wears a heart rate monitor.

By Tara R. McKee

Here is a summary of what  you’ll need for Spin Classes:

• Short-sleeve top made from moisture wicking fabric
• Well fitted shorts- padded bike shorts are best
• Comfortable stiff-soled shoes (for best results use cycling shoes)
• Water bottle
• Hand towel
• Cycling gloves (recommended but not required)
• Heart rate monitor

Like so many things in life, we know we have to dress for the occasion, or for the sport. Spin class is no different. You will feel more comfortable if you are in the right shoes and in clothing. You probably have everything to get you started in  your closet now.

Moisture Wicking Shirt

To begin with, it’s hot and it’s humid, so you feel better in a short-sleeved or sleeveless top made of a technical fabric that will wick away moisture and keep you cool.

Fitted Shorts

For your first classes, you’ll be fine with some well fitted shorts. Avoid shorts that might cause chaffing with lots of loose fabric and shun cotton shorts like the plague. To protect your butt, you can wear some padded briefs under your shorts.

Wear Appropriate Shoes

If you are new to spinning, you can wear some cross-training shoes that have a breathable, mesh top and use the spin bikes that have straps on the pedals. Make sure not to pull your laces so tight that your toes become numb after awhile.

Stay Hydrated

Bring a water bottle to keep you hydrated and grab a hand towel to mop the sweat away!

Work Up to It

After awhile, you may enjoy spin class so much; you are going to want to dress the part so you can get the most out of it. To begin with, you’ll want to be more comfortable on the hard bike seat. You’ll be happier with some lightly padded cycling shorts that have a chamois crotch. That is just enough to keep you comfortable for the hour or so you are spinning. (You don’t need heavily padded or aerodynamic shorts here!) A note to newbies: nothing comes between you and your shorts—not your undies, and definitely not thongs! Wash them after every use. You can wear cycling gloves, if you like, but some people (like me) feel that you don’t need them for spin class.

To make the biggest change in going from good to great, you really want to get some cycling shoes. Cycling shoes will allow you to clip into the pedals to improve the power and form of your pedal stroke. Bonus: it will also decrease foot fatigue. It really is one of those things that once you try it, it’s hard to go back. Most people will use mountain biking shoes for their spin class shoes, which have recessed cleat or SPD (Shimano Pedal Design) and a rubberized sole for walking safety. But first check with your local gym to make sure they have SPD compatible pedals. (Save your shoes for class by wearing your cross-training shoes there. You can change into the cycling shoes once you get to the spinning room.)

Use a Heart Rate Monitor

Lastly, a heart rate monitor is one of the best tools to have in spin class to help you with your training. It is the best way to assess how hard you are working. The instructor will often tell you to try to get into a particular heart rate zone. As you learn how to use it, you’ll soon want it for road biking and running. It’s an amazingly useful device.

Enjoy your spin class!

Kristin is ready to fill her bags with her groceries.

It’s an American cliché that we use a quart of gas to go buy a quart of milk, which makes for rather expensive milk. But wait, there’s more!  In fact, 25% of all trips are made within a mile of our homes and 40% off all trips are made within two miles of our home. It is those short, little trips we make in our car that can be such a problem: lower fuel efficiency, more pollution, and worse for our growing waistlines as well.

3 bags of groceries easily fit into the paniers on Kristin's bike.

Are we really saving time? Try this experiment: bike to the closest local grocery store while your friend drives there and time yourselves. As a cyclist, you can take the easiest and quickest way there and stay off the higher traffic roads, and you just might get there first. My friend and I tried this little experiment and on the uphill mile route to the store, she had me beat by 30 seconds. On the way back, I had her beat by the same 30 seconds, probably because she was held up in some traffic. Even if a car can beat you by a few minutes, the difference can be surprisingly small for a two-mile radius.

Kristin is able to ride her bike full of groceries while wearing her everyday clothes, there is no need to get decked out in Lycra to make a quik trip to the local grocery store.

Perhaps you’d like to commute to work someday—here is a small step forward in reducing the constant use of your car. It can be the start of a car-diet. To start with, use your bike for just half of those short little trips you take from your home. Take the bike to pick up a few bags of groceries from the store. You’ll save money on gas, yes, but you also won’t be tempted to buy a lot of stuff you don’t really need.

On her way home to fill her kids up with Pop Tarts and oatmeal! That was easy and fast.

To increase the likelihood that you will use the bike instead of the car, have it within easy reach and ready to go. Have the items you need organized so they are within easy reach: your helmet, your jacket, a bike lock, and ankle band, if needed. You can gradually give your bike the “make-over” it needs to become an “errand bike.” You might start with just carrying what you need in a backpack, then add a front basket, and finally a rear rack to which you can attach panniers, which are side bags that can carry your groceries with ease.  If you have a bike trailer, you can use that to carry groceries, not just the kids.

Think like a grocery bagger if you are repacking the groceries into your panniers. Place the heavy items like cans of food, squash or potatoes on the bottom. Protectively, place easily bruised fruit or eggs on top. I admit, I am very precise about how I pack the groceries, but when I send my children to the store, they are often more quick than careful and they haven’t cracked an egg…yet. Be careful about what you put in the front basket, a sudden jarring from the road can bounce a loose item right out. If you overload the front basket, your steering may be affected. That said, I often carry a gallon of milk in my wire front basket—sometimes as much as two gallons and I just have to deal with the stiffer steering for a mile or so. Finally, if you just have a small amount of items, you can package it up in a bag and then carefully tie onto the rear rack with bungee cords.

Next time you go to the store, take your bike shopping!

Some Fun Facts:

• Sixty percent (60%) of the pollution created by automobile emissions happens in the first few minutes of operation, before the pollution control devices can work effectively
• Americans could save 462 million gallons of gasoline a year by increasing cycling from 1% to 1.5% of all trips.
• Just three hours of bicycling per week can reduce your risk of heart disease and stroke by 50%.
• The average person loses 13 lbs. their first year of commuting by bike.

(Thanks to 1 world 2 wheels for these facts)

Intervals will have you moving up and down from the saddle

A spinning class instructor will gladly help you if you are a new rider in the class. He/she will probably explain the terminology as well as how to adjust for the various positions on the stationary bike. But just in case, here is a guide to some common spin class terminology.

• Cadence counting: This is an easy one. Choose a leg and every time you make a rotation and your leg comes to the top of the rotation, that’s a count. You can use your hand at first to help you by holding it in just the right position over your leg so it taps the leg when it comes up. The instructor will tell you when to start the count and when to stop. Then you will multiply that count by a number to get your cadence. You want to maintain the same number of counts throughout the time period to keep your cadence steady. The times it goes around is also referred to as an RPM which is “revolutions per minute.”
• Hover: First set enough resistance so you can come out of the saddle and actually “hover” over the saddle. Your legs will do all the work. Keep your upper body very still and stay in a low position over the handlebars.
• Squats: Again, enough resistance will be needed so you aren’t spinning too fast. This is more of an upright position. Hold you upper body still and your legs will be doing the work. This is a hard position to hold, so make the most of it and expect some burn!
• Climbing: Set your resistance high to mimic climbing a steep grade. You may at times get out of the saddle and then sit back in the saddle to grind through the climb.
• Sprints (aka “fast pedal”): You will take the resistance off (and your instructor may give specific directions) and then you will go as fast as you can.
• Intervals: A series of “intervals” might last an entire song and be quite grueling. This is a chance to switch it up and go from climbs to sprints or jumps (standing up for 8-16 counts, then sitting down for 8-16 counts.)
• Spin: You will use your entire leg to turn the pedals, pushing and pulling with equal pressure. Your feet should be turning in perfect circles as opposed to mashing the pedal down and then bouncing back up. The action may feel similar to wiping mud off the soles of your shoes at the bottom of every pedal stroke. It is in spinning you will concentrate on keeping it at a specific RPM, very likely 80-100 RPM.
• Recovery Spinning (aka “soft pedal”) is a recovery spin with little or no effort. Lower the resistance, spin your legs easily, get a drink from your water bottle and take it easy for the time.

• Single leg: you will take one leg off the pedal so you can pedal with just one leg, then you will repeat with the opposite leg. (This ability can come in handy on the road bike when you can’t get the other foot clipped in right away and you need to get going quickly

Set the resistance high before getting into the climbing position

Hold your upper body very still for the squat position on the bike.

Hover over the saddle and you will soon feel the burn!

With the right clothing, you can go out on your bike in all kinds of weather!

By Tara R. Mc Kee

If you are living in a part of the country that regularly gets a real winter with cold temperatures and plenty of snow: read on. Safety dictates that when there is snow and ice are on the road, no more road biking (other types of cycling can still be done—but that is another article!) However as long as the roads are snow and ice free and the temperatures aren’t in the dangerous range, you can still enjoy your road bike. You can extend your road biking season into more months of the year with a few additions to your cycling wardrobe.

Temperatures can vary enough during the course of a multi-hour autumn or spring ride that it is always good to remember Mom’s advice and bring a jacket. A portable, easily packable lightweight jacket can be brought out in case the weather changes. If it is just a little nippy, you can add to your shorts knee warmers or leg warmers and to warm your fingers some long-fingered gloves. But we have a little more advice to help you be well-dressed no matter the weather:

Your Cold Weather Guide:

Cool, Dry Weather in the 50’s and 60’s
Head: just your helmet
Torso: Short-sleeve jersey with arm warmers & vest OR mid-weight long-sleeve jersey
Legs: Shorts with knee covers OR knickers
Hands: Long-fingered gloves with no insulation or glove liners over biking gloves
Feet: Shoes & socks

JoLynn's retro looking Merino Wool Jersey (Pearl Izumi PRO Woolie 1/4 zip jersey) and 3D Elite knickers are a great look for fall. She has a base layer top; the Ultra Sensor Mesh LS Crew and over her short finger gloves she can pull on the Grip-Lite liner gloves for the ideal warmth on a 50 degree day.

Another look for a 50 -60 degree day:

With weather in the 50’s, Karin feels “just right” wearing Pearl Izumi’s Cap-sleeve jersey with an Optic vest and Thermafleece arm warmers and on her legs the 3D Elite Shorts with Thermafleece knee warmers.

Colder, Dry Weather in the 40’s
Head: Headband to cover ears
Torso: Long-sleeve mid-weight base layer shirt with lightweight jacket
Legs: Tights
Hands: Insulated gloves with wind protection
Feet: Socks & shoes with toe covers

Karin can enjoy a ride with temps in the 40’s wearing Pearl Izumi’s W’s Transfer LS base layer and W’s Elite Softshell cycling tight with the lightweight and highly packable OpTik jacket. She wears the Caliente Toe Covers and Thermafleece headband for extra warmth.

Cool to Cold Rainy Weather (40’s-60’s)
Head: Hood from rain jacket, if desired
Torso & Legs: Rain jacket & rain pants
Hands: Water-resistant gloves
Feet: Water-resistant shoe covers

Karin is ready for rain showers on her ride with Pearl Izumi’s Octane Rain Jacket w/ hood, Octane Rain pants, and the Cyclone Gloves and Cyclone Shoe Covers which offer wind and water protection.

Really Cold Weather (20’s-30’s)
Head: Winter-weight Skullcap or Balaclava
Torso: Layered look: long-sleeve base-layer shirt + warm jacket or triple layer: base-layer, fleece or wool shirt for insulation and shell jacket
Legs: Fleece-lined tights that are wind-proof in the front
Hands: Insulated winter weight gloves–split finger or lobster-style are nice in the cold
Feet: Insulated booties (warm socks, too)

Jolyn is ready for the cold weather in the 20’s and 30’s F. with the warm Pearl Izumi Insulatour Jacket pulled over a base-layer jersey. The warmly insulated Am-FIB tights are wind-proof and water resistant for cold days. The Am-FIB gloves and Am-FIB shoe covers keep her hands and feet warm while the Barrier Balaclava protects her head and neck from the frigid weather.

Thanks to Pearl Izumi at the Factory Outlet in Park City, Utah for the clothing in this article.

Shauna has ridden a hybrid for several years and had to borrow a road bike for triathlons. She is now looking to buy her own road bike so we came with her on her search.

We have been in many bicycle shops over the years and the vast majority, have great helpful staff that are happy to help female customers. There are alas, a few bad apples: guys who only want to talk to my husband, one bike store manager who was downright rude, and the plain old unhelpful who only speak bike-shop-ese. Don’t put up with that! Walk out of the stores where you aren’t treated well and look for another. We promise you, there are some absolute bike shop gems out there: well-run stores with incredibly helpful crews.

Josh gives Shauna a full run down on each of the bicycles before she takes them out for a test spin.

When buying your first bicycle, you want the touch, feel and ride experience, so I don’t recommend buying a bike online. I also don’t recommend going to a big-box store for a bike where the employees know little about bikes and the bikes are poor quality. I recommend going to your local bike shop (LBS). It will be worth spending a little more for a bike that you will love and will last you for many years.

Make sure your LBS treats you with respect, it shouldn’t feel like a “boys only” club. If it does, try another shop down the street. Most bicycle stores are going to be helpful and courteous and are a real source for helping you find the right bike for you. A great bike sales clerk will be happy to answer your questions about the bicycle and discuss the pros and cons of various models. The focus of that bike store should be finding the right bike for you! (The first question out of the clerk’s mouth should NOT be: “How much are you planning on spending?”)   Down the road, you can enjoy a great relationship with your bike store and they can be the go-to place for your bike’s upkeep and repair and the place you can get recommendations for gear and accessories.

It is important to take a few bikes for a decent test ride. A good shop will have a demo bike you can take for a full ride.

A few tips for buying your first bike:

1. Do your homework online. Once you know what type of bike you want, you can do a lot of research on the Internet. You can research brands and various models. Make notes and write down ahead of time what you want.
2. Come dressed and ready to take a test ride. (Tight jeans & flip flops don’t cut it!) If you have padded road bike shorts, wear them, and if you don’t have any yet, come dressed in yoga pants or shorts and tennis shoes.
3. Just like clothes, sizes of bikes will vary from brand to brand. The bike shop should size you up and help you find a bike that fits you before you take a test ride, making adjustments to move the saddle and so forth.
4. Take a test ride: ride around the block at least. Most bike shops offer bikes that you can try for a longer test rides. Put the bike through its paces: shift, brake hard and test the acceleration. Try a hill if possible to make sure the bike has the necessary gearing you’ll need.
   

   Josh continued to ask questions after the test so that he could get a good idea of what Shauna thought. This kind of attention will ensure that you purchase a bicycle that is right for you.

5. Try a bike out of your price range to see what the differences are when you spend a lot of money. You should feel the differences and understand what you’re paying for. You’ll feel better about your purchase and that you are getting what you want, not just what the sales guy is pushing.
6. The bike should fit. It isn’t that great of a deal if it is uncomfortable to ride or worse, result in injury later. Also, a “women’s specific” bike might be perfect for a lot of women. But your body type might be the exception. That said, adjustments can be made with the stem, the seat rails, the handlebar, etc. to ensure the perfect fit.
7. Appearances do matter. If you like the color and appearance of the bike, you’ll ride it more! (And you’ll look great on it!)
8. Be sure and consider the whole bicycling experience by getting the proper gear: including helmet, clothing, and shoes, if required. Get a pump and spare tube for emergencies.

I’d love to hear your comments, ideas or success stories (or alternatively, horror stories) from recent first time bike buyers as well as bike store personnel.

Thanks to Guthrie Bicycle and their manager Josh, you are one of the gems!